Day 11, Tuesday, May 22nd: Sumo (and Kamameshi)!

Another beautiful sunny morning with a high expected of 27 degrees in Tokyo. Our plan is to attend the sumo basho and meet Naomi, Hikaru and their niece Chiaki for dinner. Although we love sumo it is OK today that we don't arrive super early.

A zoom lens shot of rikishi getting into their stance just before they begin. 

Tokyo train manners sign loved by Lana. Many of us are familiar with the saying "time is money" but here in Japan, time is manner :)  Don't stick your arm into the subway door to try to keep it open, listen to the upcoming station announcements so you are ready to depart the train when it stops, don't block the doorways. Apparently these types of messages are very common and are used to promote subway etiquette :)

When we arrive at Ryogoku train station we are at the exit on the wrong side. We check out the street map and Lana decides she wants to find the "Sumo shrine." We try to find the shrine using the street map, but it is misleading. We take out the Handy to find the small shrine located on a very busy major street in the neighbourhood. A little bit of a walk from where we were situated, but worth it. 

Nominosukune Shrine (Sumo Shrine sign)

Shrine board explaining the stone pillar to its side dedicated to previous Yokozuna.

Lana in front of shrine water purification area. These are in all shrines whether large or small.

 Sumo mascot outside Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumo stadium)

 Drum tower in front of Ryogoku Kokugikan. At the conclusion of each day of sumo there is a drummer at the top of the tower who drums so loud you can hear it for blocks. Beautiful banners line the outer perimeter of the entrance to the Ryogoku Kokugikan. 

Rikishi feet are huge!

Giant macaron gift from French government as part of a sumo basho winning prize. The one pictured was a replica--too bad as the macaron is Lana's favourite cookie!!

 Yes there is a sumo cookie.

Randy is a rikishi!

Rikishi sandals - size does matter!

We are in our seats by 11:35. Like yesterday, not very many fans in the stadium. We have some stuff in our backpack for lunch and two bottles of water from the hotel. We receive two free bottles each day in our room. We sit at the railing until the real owners show. We are exactly in the middle south side of the dohyo between west (left) and east (right). Great seats, but not ours. We like our seats as well as they are only about three rows back. 

Observations from our day two of sumo basho:

• couple of younger rikishi who are tall and not girthy (yet) and they are both super quick and agile and win easily against much bigger rikishi (junior divisions)
• heavier rikishi will try to use their superior leverage against shorter/slimmer opponents
• slapping around the head and neck is allowed and happens quite often (but no fists only open hands)
• sheer power of some rikishi who simply over-power their opponent and push them straight out
• there is a raised edge around the perimeter of the dohyo that can be used as leverage when a rikishi is being pushed out
• diameter of dohyo is 4.55 metres
• at the centre of the dohyo are two white lines called shaker and the rikishi have to start their bouts behind it
• some losing rikishi get picked up by their opponent and carried out of the ring
• I like to add to our bout lists by noting each rikishi's ranking beside their name
• I was talking to an older Japanese fellow yesterday and he indicated he had a son who was a rikishi fighting in the makushita division. His sumo name is "Katsu" and his record is 3-2. The older gentleman is Mr. Mitsuo. His son's real first name is Katsuyama. His son is not fighting today but will be up tomorrow.
• there are Japanese terms for how the rikishi win each match as this is part of the records/documentation of each bout
• the stadium/arena is air conditioned
• each rikishi have counter moves
• sometimes a rikishi looks certain to lose and then makes a move and is the winner
• these rikishi are excellent athletes; powerful, agile, quick, technically sound, strategic, focused
• sometimes when they are in a grasp or clenched together they wait for their opponent to make the first move and then they counter the move and win
• Juryo division begins around 14:30 today
• the bouts move pretty quickly until the senior divisions are active and it slows down
• this afternoon when they started the Juryo division we didn't understand the names as they didn't match the order from the daily sheet. It wasn't until about the sixth round Lana figured out they had some extra bouts not listed at the start... very confusing for non-Japanese.
• we see a match that ends in a tie (they both fell from the dohyo and landed at the exact same time) so they need to fight again immediately
• in Makuuchi Division the winner gets an envelope--we find out later it is indeed money and derived from the advertising flags paraded around the ring before the bout. Each flag is worth 60,000Yen and the Sumo Association takes 30,000Yen and the winning rikishi gets 30,000Yen which he can use to pay his many assistants. 
• the Makuuchi rikishi have their own pillows and small towels brought out by a sumo apprentice before the rikishi entrance
• break at 17:00 as we are then 1/2 way through the Makuuchi Division bouts
• one of the Yokozuna, Kakuryu, side steps the starting collision and the other rikishi goes right out of the ring -- the crowd are booing.
• at the last bout the crowd are chanting Endo as they love him. He loses to the Yokozuna.

Bow Ceremony at the conclusion of the day's bouts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv7doGB8J5E&feature=youtu.be

During the Makuuchi (Senior Division) bouts there will be this type of sponsor advertising. Guys carrying flags/banners around the dohyo before the bout begins. 

Randy's concession lunch of Bockwurst Sausages with Fries for 400Yen. Not too bad attempt at a North American dish. 

Yokozuna Hakuho on the right.

Yokozuna Kakuryu on the left.

Makuuchi Division video procession: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnl6aJ4OPDw&feature=youtu.be 

Makuuchi Division procession before the bouts begin. This really gets the crowd excited.

Match Video between Hakuho (Yokozuna) versus Endo (Komusubi). Endo is a crowd favourite: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBAgIdohxEM&feature=youtu.be

We thought it was interesting that these six fans crowded themselves into a level one seat which is really meant for four adults. Plus sitting Japanese style can be very uncomfortable it you are not used to it. But when you purchase on of these box seat areas--it's yours no matter if there is one person or four inside. Good thing there was only three of the in each box. 

Sign along the side of the stadium which has the fighters names--the winners are shown with a red line as the tournament progresses. 

Yokozuna Hakuho doing a special ritual prior to the Makuuchi Division bouts. 

Close up of Rikishi (Sekiwake Rank) TOCHINOSHIN. This is a highly ranked rikishi who is 10 wins 0 losses so far in the tournament. He is from Georgia (the country). When we were leaving the stadium tonight he was leaving from a side exit and Lana got really close to him for the photo. He was autographing for fans as well. He has the potential to be a Yokozuna. 

Off to the train station which is packed with sumo fans, but we get onto the next train so that is a success. We navigate to the Ginza restaurant using our Handy. Problem is once we get off at the train station in Ginza we are in the middle of Tokyu Plaza mall and difficult to find an exit. Very weird. We find an escalator and somehow find outside. Not too long of a walk to the restaurant, but we are early so decide to enjoy the great night and being in Ginza. Ginza is a high-end retail shopping destination for Japanese and tourists. All the major expensive labels have a presence here. Fortunately, Lana is not in a shopping mood.

Beautiful entrance to a place in Ginza. 

Our friends Naomi and Hikaru picked Torigin Honten restaurant as they are known for Kamameshi Japanese cuisine. What is kamameshi cuisine? "Served in a small pot. Rice and other ingredients are cooked in a soup stock to create a harmony of tastes with toppings. Only cooked after you order." Despite the incredible number and variety of Japanese restaurants in Vancouver we do not have this style of cuisine. This will be another cuisine to add to our Japanese experiences. 

We meet Naomi, Hikaru and their niece Chiaki who is studying Mandarin and will be moving to Taiwan for about one year in September. We have a fantastic meal at Torigin Honten and really enjoy this new cuisine. Also, good discussions, although not always easy translating between languages. Lana uses our Handy to help with the translation. 

Kamameshi pot. You open the lid and use the spoon to mix all the ingredients with the rice inside. The metal pot is very hot! 

Naomi ordered mixed vegetables. 

Small bowl of radish and mixed little fish to pair with our beer. 

Lana's order of mixed Chicken Kamameshi.

Randy's order of Crab (Kani) Kamameshi.

Bowl of Motsunikomi (stewed giblets) with carrot and radish cake. 

Hikaru ordered the mixed topping Kamameshi--shrimp, chicken, bamboo shoots.

Close up of the rice in the Kamameshi after it is mixed. You need to use the spoon to dig down to the bottom of the pot.

Chiaki ordered the Salmon Kamameshi. She said this was also her first time having this dish.

Rice sticks to the side of the Kamameshi pot and it gets crispy so you can scrape it off and it is like sticky rice that Japanese and Chinese people love.

Plate of delicious Tofu. Very simple presentation--Lana says we should be eating tofu like this when we are back home--very healthy.

Hikaru, Chiaki and Naomi. 

The five of us!

 Bar Lupin in a Ginza alley (originated in 1928). Hikaru pointed this historical place out and it is still in business. 

Another frustrating night trying to update pictures and create the blog when the hotel internet just isn't working or is working extremely slow! Lana has been unsuccessful in trying to send her sumo videos via email. Will try again tomorrow. 

Our walking stats for the day:  13,000 steps and 9.5 kms with 13 floors of elevation.