Day 3, Monday, May 14th: Zen & The Art of Shinto hiking

We both wake up around 04:00. That damn crow seems to be following us (?) as he was cawing away when we woke up. Also, a cat in heat which was active last night was still in our neighbourhood early in the morning. About 06:00 the sun rose and our room brightened up. Overall, we had a decent second night sleep and Lana fell back asleep for a while.

Before 08:30 it is already 21 degrees Celsius and a high expected of 25 degrees. Looking forward to the summer weather. We enjoy our pastries for breakfast and make plans for sightseeing in Kyoto. For certain, we will be navigating around using their train system. We have the air conditioner activated as it is getting warm.

For breakfast we eat the pastries purchased yesterday. All three are really good and are not overly sweet. Much like European style with not too much sugar. We don't have any fruit as the prices in the supermarkets are way too much compared to what we pay at home in Vancouver. 

Some insights into our Kyoto Airbnb apartment (provisal that we are staying in an inexpensive place within a large urban neigbourhood):

• no large screen tv in these small apartments
• efficient usage of space - it is very small 
• soundproof
• no dedicated dining area as you would pull out a small table and then have chairs around it
• wifi is pretty fast

Bedroom area (about 2/3 of total apartment) which are two tatami mats for sleeping. Comfortable, although unusual for us North Americans used to box mattresses. 

 Shower/bathtub. Very tiny room by our standards. Super deep bathtub. Water drains very well so no mess. 

Toilet with sink that is activated once you flush the toilet to use grey water. Very common that Japanese separate the toilet from the shower/bathtub. Prudent hygienic reasons and efficient given both rooms might be needed at the same time. This toilet seat is not heated.   ;-) 

This is our first full day in Kyoto. We check on which attractions we are eager to see and decide the two we want to visit and spend significant time are Arashiyama (located in the western side of Kyoto) and the Fushimi Inari Shrine located southeast of the main downtown core of Kyoto. Both are well known tourist targets. An advance warning as this is a very long blog and filled with pictures!

We don't have a physical map of the Kyoto train/subway system, but Lana downloads the map below to her iPhone so we have access anywhere and it does not use data. Randy figures out trains and off we go to the nearby Shijo JR station. We are outside by around 09:00 and it is beautiful with warm weather and a few clouds in the blue sky. As a reference point we are staying very close to Karasuma station and Shijo station. This was one of my criteria for choosing an Airbnb in Kyoto. 

The Shijo train station is super busy on a Monday morning. We need some help figuring out which track to find the Hankyu Kyoto line as we need to get to Saiin station first. We would then transfer to the Keifuku Arashiyama Line destined for Arashiyama. Seems pretty straightforward, although we are not sure how far the Saiin station is from the Sai station on the Keifuku Arashiyama Line? We do find the correct track number and wait for the train which should stop at the first station. Yup, it doesn't as it is a "Limited Express" train we get on. We race through a number of stations before it stops at Katsura station. I had no idea they ran express trains. A lesson learned the hard way. Rookie mistaken to not pay attention to local versus express trains and we chide ourselves for not taking notice of this fact!! 

We must now get to the tracks going north bound and ensure it is a local train and then get off at Saiin station. We wait for a while at Track 2. At 09:29 the local train pulls up. This train station like all Japanese train stations is clean, tidy and well organized. Zero trash on the platforms or beside the rails. The local train is very wide with seats on the perimeter facing across from each other and lots of room for standing passengers. Lots of hanging straps for standing passengers as well. All Japanese trains run ON TIME and they are all scheduled. I had presumed they would have free wifi, but they don't. Or, we simply aren't able to access their wifi networks based on our foreign IP addresses? 

I love how Japanese are so efficient, friendly and organized. They have these employees ensuring that departing passengers are on the correct side of the stairs and there is enough space left for passengers coming down the stairs to catch the train. Check out the arrow signs on the floor confirming which direction you are supposed to be walking. I love it! 

Yes, no more bumping into people on the wrong side of hallways and stairs. Yeh!!!!! One of my pet peeves is people who walk on the wrong side of stairs and sidewalks. They should put these signs on all sidewalks and stairs in all countries. Way more efficient as well. 

Yes, we have learned our lesson about ensuring we know which trains are local trains and which could be express or limited express. Especially when it even has it designated in English!! Doh!!!

Lana is overjoyed to find a Hello Kitty reference within Kyoto's main train station. Shinkansen are their 'bullet' high speed trains. Maybe we will get this one when we take the Shinkansen to Mt. Fuji on Wednesday :)

We depart the Saiin station and follow signage to Randen Sai station. Unfortunately, the signs point down the main thoroughfare and after a couple of blocks we are not seeing any train tracks! We head into a 7-11 and the clerk provides a Japanese map, but doesn't know the local train stations. A customer points us back to where we came from. We do find the Randen Sai station, but quickly figure out we are on the wrong side of the tracks. Cross the main street and voila we are right where the sign pointed down the street. Grrrr... 

We are now at the Keifuku Arashiyama line and Randen Sai station and on the correct platform--we did miss finding this little train station--walked right by it--missed the signage!!?? It was just a tiny outside platform. The train or should I say trolley? pulls up and we are on our way to Arashiyama and the famous bamboo forest. It is very warm with a vivid blue sky. There is no need to scan our Suica card on entry as it is a fixed price of 220Yen to pay when you disembark. The A13 station is our destination of Arashiyama. Most of the passengers get off with us as this is a very popular tourist destination. An employee ensures you pay for your fare on exit at the platform. 

First thing we notice is around the train station it is full of restaurants, gift shops, tourist traps and many shrines and Shinto temples. Plus, hundreds and hundreds of tourists inclusive of the usual number of local school kids dressed in their school uniforms. The signs are excellent so no chance of getting lost no matter how dis-orientated you may be. There is NO entrance fee to the bamboo forest.

So many different nationalities and cultures are on this walk. Many cameras and selfie sticks. I don't know the distance of the walk, but it isn't too far. Plus, there are some side trails which we explored a few.  Given the shade it is fairly cool compared to the direct sun. There are some places where there is gridlock, but everyone (mostly everyone) is in a pretty chilled mood.

Believe it or not, Lana took this picture in the Bamboo Forest walk. It really looks professional and captures the colours, natural light and the bamboo forest perfectly. We think this will be one of the very best pictures we take the entire time in Japan. It also captures the height of the bamboo trees and the density of the forest itself. Lana says the best feature of the iPhone 7S is the camera--the rest of the phone itself makes her crazy!!

Lots of signage along the walk. Lana loved these little signs that "gently" guided your walk. 

The famous bamboo forest of Arashiyama. 

Another pic of the Arashiyama bamboo forest. Just a side note that in Asia they will use bamboo for scaffolding as it is that strong and stable! 

Eventually on the main trail through the bamboo forest you come to a 'fork in the road'. One trail takes you to the Ōkōchi Sansō Garden. I have read about it and it looks very interesting so we pay the entrance fee and keep on walking. It is well worth the money and the effort. A very Japanese approach to a gigantic garden in that it is designed around aesthetic sentiments and you won't find any flowers. There are some flowering bushes and that is about it. North American gardens are full of flowers as a different approach to gardens. 

Stepping stones for the Ōkōchi Sansō Garden. See below for the garden description. 

One entrance for the Ōkōchi Sansō Garden. Yes, Randy gets to haul around the backpack all day each day. 

This is out of sequence, but this is the signage for Ōkōchi Sansō Garden which is reached towards the top of the bamboo forest. These are one way trails so no bumping or avoiding other tourists. Yeh! The garden is on the side of Mount Ogura and has some fantastic viewpoints of the valley below and civilization. There are washrooms that are extremely clean - of course this is Japan! 

Myohkohan building sign located within the Ōkōchi Sansō Garden on a separate group of stairs and well hidden from the main trail. The sign says it all. Lana says the garden was the perfect zen place--peaceful, serene, immaculately organized. 

Randy in a state of Zen enlightenment facing the gardens while the sun shines through the trees. Well, at least I was relaxing. There were signs in this little building that said no sleeping--too bad, Lana would have had a wonderful nap in this serene place. 

Some very Zen statements/adages are written out in the main room for all visitors to enjoy and reflect. 

Beside the building is a very Zen inspired art work made with sandy material. Even the stones on the path are manicured.  

For your 1,000Yen per adult admission price you receive a green tea and dessert at the conclusion of your time in the gardens. Very thick tea almost like a soup. The dessert is supposed to pair nicely with the green tea mixture--a slight sweet chestnut puree (?) inside a rectangular wafer cookie. 

After the Garden experience we find some more bamboo forest trails to explore. Plus, we cross the train tracks and see a high speed train whoosh by. We are pretty relaxed and in no rush. On the way back to the train station (tons of people) we walk into the Tenryuji Shinto Temple complex. Huge complex, but for everything on site there is an admission fee and so many people. We decide to find a place to relax and then make our way back to the train station and the trolley back to our original train station at Saiin. 

There is a kimono forest art installation at the station. Fabric from old kimono have been wrapped around these cylinders to reflect the same structure as the bamboo forest. It was a really beautiful installation. 

More of the art installation.

This sign in the lavatory or WC or washroom means a North American style toilet. If you don't see this on the door it may mean the toilet is Asian-style. In effect, you won't be sitting on a toilet, but squatting using a ceramic piece on the floor. This can be offsetting for a North American. 

We got off the subway at our stop near our apartment as there were a few restaurants we were eager to try. We tried about three places, but they were all closed for lunch business. Lana was keen on our first Japan ramen meal so we walked to Ippudo.

Lana in front of the famous Ippudo Ramen restaurant which is part of a chain of Ramen restaurants in Japan. We are sending this picture to a friend's son who absolutely loves Ramen! He will be very jealous. Lana is holding an English menu. Our ramen meal came quickly and it was delicious. Perhaps, some of the very best ramen we have ever enjoyed. In Vancouver we have some excellent ramen joints run by Japanese chefs so that says a lot. Total cost of ramen meal = 2,020Yen so not a bad deal for top caliber ramen. 

Lana's order of Ramen--miso style broth--not too salty, medium thick style noodles. Nishi-des!! (Japanese for this is delicious!) The portion wasn't overly large but plenty to eat for one person. 

Randy's order of Ramen and it is a special as I get an egg, three pieces of Nori (dried seaweed) and more chashu (pork slices). 

After our filling ramen lunch we walk a short distance to the subway station and navigate southward to JR Inari train station. **Because Randy is Caucasian, the subway station worker takes one look at him and says "Inari? Track 10" knowing he must be going to the Fushimi Shrine. Too funny. This is a local train as confirmed by the voice announcement at the track. Phew! A fairly quick trip by subway. This subway train has window shades you can pull down to keep the sun off you and other passengers. 

The main entrance to the Fushimi Inari Shrine. The JR Inari train station is located beside the shrine so easy access. When we arrive around 14:30 the place is literally crammed with fellow tourists and school kids. So many people make it difficult to navigate at times. It is quite the imposing structure you first encounter and it is slightly uphill from the train station. 

Map of the Inari Shrine walk from the start of the trail to the very top and back down. The literature recommends that if you choose to walk to the top of Mount Inari the return time will be between 2 - 3 hours. 

Randy takes a picture of the trail map--in case we get lost.  

Yes, this sign provides the statistics for the number of gates (Japanese word is TORII and if you do crosswords you would know that).  ;-) Basically, by walking the entire route you will pass under more than 1.3 million Torii! Yes, we did that. We walked to the very top of Mount Inari and then around the far side. We estimate that less than 3% of fellow tourists/walkers get to the top. Pat on the back? Round trip with all the stopping/taking pics etc. was about 90 minutes. Some ascents were very steep and we both got a decent sweat going. 

Yup, this is a sign that is placed at many locations along the trail. How many people would be that dumb to want to get too close to a wild boar?

If you are still reading this blog or at least looking at the pictures get ready as we have more than a dozen pictures of the Torii! They are in no particular order or sequence. As you can see we love them! Do you know how hard it was to find gaps where there were no people? We discovered that the higher you walked the less fellow tourists would be found--that's when you get to take some decent pictures of this hike. At or near the top, there are very few people. 

Yup, such a poser!

Another poser!

You will not find any garbage or trash on or near the trail!

Check out how the late afternoon light strikes a couple of Torii on the right hand side below. 

One of many thousands of Shinto shrines along the walk. If you are still reading this blog and/or looking at the pictures you have our sympathy!  ha ha  Check out the dogs. 

We did stop at the junction towards the top where you have two different trails to get to the top and then circle back. This was after completing the walk as we were thirsty and wanted to rest. We enjoyed flavoured water for 200Yen per drink. Good shade and listening to other people there really were people from all over the world up here!

Navigate by subway to Kyoto main train station. This place is huge and quite a complex on the inside. We stop at Vie de France located in The Cube area of this giant train station to purchase five French inspired pastries for breakfast for the next two mornings costing 1,020Yen. Also, stop at a Supermarket located in the station to buy some water and found some truffle potato chips. Total cost 650Yen.

We arrive back at our home subway station and decide to stop at the local Starbucks for an iced Chai tea latte and relax some more. The seating area at the Starbucks is very large yet few empty seats. It is located on the second floor of a mall. Walk back to apartment and Lana decides to try and nap while I load the many pictures into our blogs. Decision to create a separate blog for tonight's dinner of okonomiyaki.

One observation that we have covered before is that the cities are so clean. The weird thing for us North Americans is it is difficult to find a trash can. Yet, all is so clean. Recycling is very big here. 

According to Lana's iPhone walking app she records for the entire day = 25,000 steps and 18 kms and 80 floors (uphill statistic). A good day of walking.