Day 6, Thursday, May 17th: Tokyo Deja Vu!

We are both awake by 06:00 this morning in our very comfortable king-size bed. Very windy and cloudy this morning and around 17 degrees. Bit of a chill in the air as the trees sway back and forth. For some reason the internet is incredibly slow. I have to comment on our shower as the spray was super strong which I love. Lana enjoyed the bathtub. Very cool showering and looking out the window at the forest below. For breakfast we had white peach and pineapple fruit bags and some packaged sweet buns. Lana accidentally knocked over and broke a porcelain china tea cup and we left 1000Yen for the host. We are meeting our taxi down the hill at the onsen for 09:30. Our host Vickie had arranged the taxi. Of course it is ready when we show up about five minutes early. Yup, Japanese are on time. Yeh!!!

Before we left the condo, I picked up my jacket from the counter beside the front door and something black flew out. I wasn't sure what it was until it began crawling on the floor. It was one of the largest spiders I have ever seen! I think it cracked the tile floor when it hit. Lana was scared and had to be escorted out. We were out of the condo well before 09:30.

Our van taxi driver was very professional looking and a good driver. He took a completely different route to Mishima train station. This area around Mount Fuji is completely socked in with low flying clouds. People are wearing jackets and pants. Very windy! Lots of curves in the road. A super long tunnel. No way we will be seeing Mount Fuji today! Interesting that the van taxi has white doily cloths covering each of the seats - much like when we in China. We drive through Gotemba. We take the 401 Road and not the 138. I really enjoyed seeing rice fields up close as they are along the road and in residential and commercial areas! Even the rural areas have vending machines on the side of the road. Drove by a 100 Yen Store, much like our Dollar Stores! They have Mister Donut stores in Japan. Gas stations show their lowest price gasoline by flashing the price.

We left our onsen at 09:26 and arrived at Mishima train station 10:23. Total cost of taxi = 11,620Yen so a new record for cost of a taxi. Oh well, we are safely at the train station and ready for our Shinkansen train ride into Shinagawa (Tokyo). It is very overcast in Mishima.  Into the train station and purchase two tickets for the Kodoma Shinkansen 8,000Yen. Track 6 and we take Car 6 as we purchased unreserved seats. It takes around 50 minutes to get to Shinagawa despite numerous stops at stations.

When you are on the train platform and a Shinkansen speeds through the station there is a noticeable roar! Also, when you are in your Shinkansen at a station waiting for new passengers, if a Shinkansen zips by your train gently rocks. That is the wind resistance and airflow diversion they create because of how fast they are going. Maximum operating speed is 320 km/hour.

Video of Shinkansen going through train station--they are a little loud as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1ieDTwLkMg&feature=youtu.be

Here is our Shinkansen - very space age looking! Lana took this photo as it was coming into the station--still very fast--she took 3 photos in hopes of one turning out at this speed!!

Example of a platform queue line for a Shinkansen train. It looks like I am asleep, but I didn't realize I was in the picture. Maybe I am practising standing mindful meditation?

Just a bit of background regarding Tokyo:  At over 5,000 square miles, the Greater Tokyo Area is the second largest metropolitan area on the planet in terms of urban landmass. In terms of population, it comes in at #1. Founded as Edo once upon a time (in the 12th century), Tokyo's literal translation means “East(ern) capital.”Jul 24, 2014

In other words, Tokyo is huge! Not only in population density, but in the size of the area it covers! 

The population of Tokyo may be a bit hard to understand because of the way the figures are laid out. The 23 wards claim a population of 9.2 million, but the metropolis has a population that exceeds 13 million. The greater Tokyo metropolitan area, which is spread over 3 prefectures, is much larger and has a population that is estimated to be over 36 million. That means the greater Tokyo area is home to 25% of Japan's population, and it's the most populous metropolitan area in the world. The metropolitan area is so large, in fact, that it is 1.5 times larger than the world's next largest metropolitan area, Seoul.

We arrive at Shinagawa station at the exact arrival time on our ticket: 11:39 am. Now we need to figure out which exit we take to be closest to our Tokyo Marriott Hotel? I know from my research the hotel is west and north of the train station. We manage to find first the North exit and then West exit so we are in the right direction. Very muggy and slightly overcast as we pull our luggage. Our hotel is uphill from the station and takes about 15 minutes. Quite an incline in the heat. 

When we arrive, we are greeted by a hotel hostess who escorts us to the check-in area. It is a few minutes walk and we are not sure how we would have found it. First impressions are this is a very upscale hotel. Lana has Gold status with the Marriott hotel chain given she usually stays in Marriott hotels when travelling on business. We have reservations for ten (10) consecutive nights and the first five are free with Lana using her Marriott points. Huge bonus for us. We need to wait to check in and then wait for our room (1415) to be ready as it is being cleaned by room service. 

Take the super fast elevator to 14th floor and our deluxe corner room overlooking this part of the city and above the train station below. Some sound of the trains. Our room is beautiful, spacious and lots of perks. We have a king-size bed, good size closet with hangars, Japanese modern toilet, large tv screen, fridge, free high speed wifi, lots of window space and a dresser drawer for my clothes. 

In addition, a fantastic unexpected perk of a travel buddy known as a handy. Our room comes with a smartphone that is FREE to use during our stay. It has free internet access (no need for me to look again for a SIM card), unlimited local and international phone calls, google maps for navigating this huge metropolis, lots of apps and it is very light to carry. We learn later that it will come in very handy (get it!). 

Once we are in our room (12:35), my first priority is to unpack my suitcase especially given we are here until we leave for the airport on the 27th. Lots of hangars for my creased shirts and pants. This is my routine when we stay for more than three nights in a place. Lana doesn't unpack and she travels a lot lighter than me. She heads upstairs to check out the Executive lounge on the top floor. It is nearing 12:45 and we are both pretty hungry. Outside we go and we'll figure out over lunch our first Tokyo destination. 

The title of today's blog is déjà vu. This term is French and means already seen. "Those who have experienced the feeling describe it as an overwhelming sense of familiarity with something that shouldn't be familiar at all." 

Well, this is Lana's experience and to a much lesser extent mine. When we are walking near the Shinagawa station Lana looks north and we see the Prince Hotel. Lana indicates this is the hotel we stayed in when we were last here! It is about two blocks from our Marriott Hotel! It is located uphill from the train station. Wow! In a city this large, what are the odds we would find ourselves so close again? Too funny! Now that we both realize this the area does indeed look familiar! The area has definitely changed though which is why we didn't immediately recognize it--there are a lot more shops and restaurants nearby. Last time we were here, there was nothing in front of the hotel so you could clearly see it as soon as you exited the station. Now there are two large commercial buildings in front of the hotel--you can hardly see it now from the street. 

Where is Shinagawa area relative to the rest of Tokyo? It is in the very south of metropolitan Tokyo. This Tokyo metro subway map shows Shinagawa, but you have to look at the very bottom. The best news is we are between two stations on the JR Yamanote Line (Circle Line) which is like a circle running around central Tokyo. Perfect for navigating by subway train around Tokyo and connecting with the many other subway and train lines. If you have been to Tokyo you'll know that this is a good thing. 

Anyway, we arrive near the train station and decide to head underneath the tracks for our lunch. This is the same area we ate at quite often when we were last in Tokyo. The food is incredible, lots of Japanese cuisine choices and relatively inexpensive. Those are all good things! 

Food Trucks located right outside our Hotel! We didn't see any food trucks when we were here about 10 years ago. It's great to see the concept is here as well. 

This board represents all twelve restaurants and profiles their signatures foods that are 'under the train tracks'. Pretty busy with locals and some tourists. We liked the picture on the very bottom left so we find #8 restaurant. No idea of the name of the restaurant as the title is in Japanese kanji. We have learned if we want to know the english title we need to ask for a business card (meishi). 

Lana ordering our lunch on a tablet screen just inside the small restaurant. We love this method of ordering your meal. You go to the machine. You are not waiting for someone to seat you, then get you a menu, then eventually show up to take your order and then sometimes mess up your order. This is so much more efficient for both the customer and the restaurant. There are still servers, but I guess less servers?

You pay for your lunch at the machine and then a receipt pops out that you give to a server. Any coin change shows up as well. The server then points to a couple of seats where you can sit. They now know where to deliver your order. Very efficient!

Pork stir fry on rice with a raw egg. You crack the egg into the pork/rice and stir it around with your chop sticks to create a fantastic bowl! The egg really enhances the tastes. As a rule, I love anything with egg in it. Lots of food as well--the portion was huge and it was the just the regular size--it would have fed the both of us quite easily. You eat against the wall so sit side by side. 

Other lunch order of rice, chicken karaage and a salad. All delicious and we eventually eat all the meal except for some of the rice. We are both full! Now we are ready to explore Tokyo and enjoy one of our most favourite cities we have ever visited. 

My research of Tokyo identified a neighbourhood in the western part as "free wheeling creativity, second-hand stores, low rise buildings and many pedestrian streets": KOENJI. From Shinagawa station you take the Circle Line to another station and then transfer to Chuo Line and then about seven stops on their Rapid Line to Koenji station. We are in the subway system around 14:20. One glitch when we arrive at Tokyo main station we know the Chuo Line is within a minute walk. Problem is from the signage for the two tracks we aren't sure which one goes to Koenji station? We do figure out the track and then wait in the train while we have some anxiety about going in the correct direction. We leave and check the first station we stop at and all is fine. This is their 'rapid' line so it does not stop at all stations, but Koenji is a station where it will stop. 

Map of Koenji neighbourhood surrounding Koenji train station. Very helpful and each train station has a map of the surrounding area. Invaluable! Plus, you take a picture on your cellphone and refer to this by enlarging the pic as you walk the area. As well, we have taken the hotel "handy" and access it for google maps quite often during our walking tour of Koenji. 

Local temple that we believe was open? We wandered around the grounds, but the buildings were closed. This is right in the middle of the residential neighbourhood. Very serene and calming to walk the grounds. Overall, the Koenji area is pretty laid back. You don't see many salarymen in Koenji except towards the end of the work day walking home from the train station.

Apartment rentals sign. There were a number of rental companies with their signs on the street outside their businesses. We think the price shown is per month--so 42,000 Yen would be about $500 CDN for the suite in the upper left corner? But we could be wrong on this!!

Koenji covered shopping area (shotengai) which runs for many blocks. It is slightly air conditioned! Yeh! Signs indicate no riding of bicycles! 

Koenji butcher with an incredible marbled cut of beef. 

Yes, smaller apartment spaces necessitate smaller appliances. 

In the supermarkets, you bring your basket of purchased groceries to a shelf and bag everything yourself. 

While navigating the neighbourhood Randy needs to find a toilet urgently. There is a Poppins Coffee & Tea slightly below ground level where we are walking. We duck inside and Randy heads for the toilet and Lana grabs a seat. She orders a Mango and Oolong Iced Tea for 500Yen. North American style toilet so much appreciated. The owner is a tiny older lady dressed exquisitely and very calm demeanour. Small place with a wooden counter, beautiful china cups and saucers on a bookshelf and a menu in both English and Japanese! Two small glasses of water as we relax in this refuge. The only downside was Lana was smelling the various tea blends from various tins when the owner waved her hands to not do that. Lana feels bad for the rest of the day as she may have offended the owner. 

Poppins Coffee & Tea in Koenji. 

Picture of a mini dishwasher! Lana adored this small appliance. It was literally a half size dish washer!!

You might have heard of Japanese restaurants that have plastic food identifying what you can order? This is an example. The plastic representations are very detailed and look like the real thing!

Did you guess these are bags of different types of rice?

OK, we can't walk by this vintage clothing store and not take a picture!

We are in no rush as we walk the various pedestrian streets in this quaint neighbourhood. We come across Serapia Cure which advertises massages. Lana loves massages and I think it would be a good reward for both of us to get foot massages with all the walking/hiking we've been doing these past couple of days. The fellow indicates we can come back at 19:20 for both of us to get our massages at the same time. That gives us plenty of time to continue walking around Koenji and get some dinner. 

Lana finds a place that has a great selection of Japanese cotton prints. She purchases two prints and one we will take home. This is a very humid day. We needed to wear shorts not pants! A couple of places have tv sets and they are showing the Sumo Basho tournament we will be at in a few days. We do stop and watch some of the bouts. We can't wait to be there. 

One thing we have noticed there is smoking in dedicated public areas. Great idea. We find a park to rest and in one corner a number of smokers are congregated enjoying their nicotine sticks. No smoking on the subway trains of course. Another great deal with travelling by subway is the air conditioning! On the subway trains many many passengers are busy on the cellphones. They aren't talking on their phones, but checking them or playing games. 

I decide it is time to find a dinner place, but I am pretty picky today on where I want to stop. I am looking for very casual and very local. Lana indulges my wandering the streets and I find a side alley and a tempura place. We haven't enjoyed tempura cuisine on this trip (yet). Check out the link on the description of tempura - very interesting. The tempura dedicated small joint of 10 seats against a wooden counter is Tempura Kait. All seats are occupied so we need to wait. Once we are seated and start eating it was well worth the wait!

Internet photo of Tempura Kait. The older fellow on the right was present and he was a bit of a showman. 

Tempura Kait -- tempura dipping sauce on the right and pickles on the left. This is what you are first presented with. 

Tempura Kait -- equipment for making the tempura. 

Video making Egg Tempura: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXcgNOir_rs&feature=youtu.be

Tempura Kait - this is Egg Tempura on rice. It is incredibly delicious! This is now one of my favourite dishes! Yes, I am having a Sapporo beer with my tempura meal. 

Lana's tempura order of Shiitake mushroom (right). Lana wasn't so hungry so she had only vegetable tempura and a few items. 

Very yummy and filling tempura. You finish your meal with green tea. Total cost was 2500Yen. This includes my dinner set which means the chef figures out what you will be served. I was served in order: tempura egg on rice, shrimp, eggplant, pumpkin, squid wrapped in shiso with salt, white fish, green pepper and then shrimp cake. We leave with about five minutes remaining to walk to our massage reservation. 

As an aside, the best tempura we have ever eaten and will ever eat was in the Tokyo Ginza neighbourhood when our friends Naomi and Hikaru treated us a number of years back. That opened our eyes to just how good tempura can be. That tempura place had been in operation for many years and the chef was a master tempura artist. 

Randy's tempura order on the left Shrimp cake tempura, middle of green pepper tempura, squid tempura wrapped in shiso leaf with salt and whitefish tempura.

OK, we couldn't resist a picture of these girls trying to recruit some male customers. We have no idea what this business is offering? 

Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) outlet in Koenji that offers beer with your order. 

KFC order of an ice cream sandwich. Lana thought this looked pretty funny so had to go in and buy one!!

KFC ice cream sandwich unveiled. It wasn't too bad. Soft ice cream inside a wafer that was kind of gummy, but had white chocolate coating it to give it some taste and texture. 

We are greeted at Serapia Cure and are in side by side rooms. We are paying for Japanese foot massages for 40 minutes each at a price of 3750Yen each. I believe the last time I had a foot massage was in Beijing, China about 15 years ago? Lana goes for regular foot reflexology in Vancouver. There are curtains and you take off your shoes/socks and then pants. They provide a pair of shorts and you soak your feet in warm water. They ask what kind of essential oil you want. I choose Detoxification and Lana chooses Refreshing. Jazz music is playing. You lie on your back on the massage table and they drape a cloth over your face. Most of the massage is on your feet and my massage fellow works everything pretty deeply which I prefer. Then both shins/calves and up to the knee. After the buzzer goes off he massages your back and shoulders by pounding them. Yeh! A great experience as you feel so relaxed and your feet seem almost new again. It was worth the money!

We walk back to Koenji train station and then two subway trains back to Shinagawa station. It is really nice outside in the night air with the humidity gone and not as hot. We return to our hotel around 21:00 and straight to the Executive lounge as Lana wants a lemon soda on ice and some fruit. Some business people in the lounge unwinding I guess from a hard day at work. Hmmm, a hard day at work - I don't miss that!   ;-)

Once we return to our room Lana is pretty exhausted so she is in bed and asleep in minutes. I decide to post all the pictures on our blog and provide descriptions as prep work for today's blog that I/we will finish tomorrow morning. I am in bed around 23:15. 

Lana's app shows 13 kms and 17,700 steps with about three hours of actual walking. Not too bad of a day considering the morning was in a taxi and then on the train. While it was mostly overcast it was fairly muggy and hot all day in Tokyo. A great start to the Tokyo phase of our Japan trip!